The electric trim motor from Ray Allen comes with two rods. The shorter one works on the RV-6. The RV-4 takes the longer rod. I had to trim 1 1/4" off the longer rod.
Adjusting the length and interference on the elevator skin with the old trim tab.
I added an extra piece of .032 alumimum to the tab arm. It takes most of the slack between the sides of the clevis arms and najes the tab arm a little stronger. Not necessary according to the plans, but I am trying to eliminate all slop in the trim system that I can. It should help with the altitude hold.
A battery from a cordless drill makes a great 12 volt source for running the electric trim motor back and forth.
Tab arm is riveted to trim tab. Plans call for MD-42BS pop rivets. I was able to use AN426-4 rivets because I had not riveted the top of the trim tab yet.
Trim tab complete, installed on wing and adjusted for length.
The electric trim motor from Ray Allen comes with two rods. The shorter one works on the RV-6. The RV-4 takes the longer rod. I had to trim 1 1/4" off the longer rod. 
Adjusting the length and interference on the elevator skin with the old trim tab.
I added an extra piece of .032 alumimum to the tab arm. It takes most of the slack between the sides of the clevis arms and najes the tab arm a little stronger. Not necessary according to the plans, but I am trying to eliminate all slop in the trim system that I can. It should help with the altitude hold.
A battery from a cordless drill makes a great 12 volt source for running the electric trim motor back and forth.
Tab arm is riveted to trim tab. Plans call for MD-42BS pop rivets. I was able to use AN426-4 rivets because I had not riveted the top of the trim tab yet.
Trim tab complete, installed on wing and adjusted for length.
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